7 days to go...

The capital of cool, Buenos Aires, is the destination of a friend who’s going on a trip around the world when he retires from work next month. It’s a long way from Manila, and I asked him to take back lots of pictures and stories.

I don’t know yet what kind of capital Ubud is, the Balinese town where I am going tomorrow for a week-long life break and rebirth at 50.

Sure, I know it is home to scores of artists, musicians, dancers, writers, gurus, art entrepreneurs, hoteliers and restaurateurs. And it attracts a stream of visitors all year around. But what makes it tick and move?

My Hindu friend said that he felt at home right away when he visited Bali for the first time, which became the first of many times. He has since associated himself with the island by sponsoring a school there.

Another friend has bought a piece of hill-top land there, overlooking land and sea, and hopes to make it his home after retirement. His partner also bought a piece of land, so they have a choice of where to get settled.

When Jawaharlal Nehru came to Bali he called it the Morning of the World. Countless other visitors from foreign shores have also been impressed. Some have adopted it as their home, since way back in the first half of the last century.

Bali wasn't always as peaceful as it appears nowadays. In the first decade of the twentieth century, its rivers ran red with blood when the proud Balinese fought the invaders who had already conquered the other islands of the archipelago.

Not that this was a first. The picturesque rivers had run red many times earlier during centuries of conflict when potentates from Bali and Java battled each other for hegemony of the island or a part of it.

Sukarno, the first President of Indonesia, was half Balinese, and was deeply enchanted with its art, culture, and people. When I met Balinese people among colleagues from Indonesia, they stood out in a way that is still difficult for me to describe.

So what I am going to Bali for? What does it hold in store for me? I am not so interested in its beaches, surf, shops, and nightlife. Art interests me a lot, and creativity itself even more. I hope to learn more from the island and its people, and about those who have come from other countries to make it their home.

One thing I am sure about, that my journey will involve my body, soul, and spirit. It's a place where their links become more obvious. I will start with exercise – there is a fun run in Ubud on Sunday to help save orang utans in Sumatera. Soul and spirit exercises will no doubt follow.

Photograph: Bali, by Symon (www.symonbali.com)